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Day 186 5 January ...we both found ourselves awake for hours during the middle of the night as jet lag ruled our body clocks. Emily went for dinner with more friends and is loving slotting back into her groups. Gill also started meeting friends, enjoying walks out in the crisp air under blue skies and bright sunshine and catching up with family by phone. It’s a bit surreal for both of us to come back to our former lives and so we are taking things slowly and letting the emotional moments wash gently over us while we pick up the reins again.

Today is also the day that we post our final message on Grá. What a blast it has been to record our daily discoveries and thoughts in words, photos and videos. And what huge, immense pleasure it has been to share it with you! When we initially planned the website, it was to share our experiences with anyone who wanted to follow our trip. But soon it became more than that. For us now, it is a wonderful way to remember all that we did and saw, people we met and how we felt along the journey. We will add one more summary video in the next few weeks so keep an eye out for that. Today though, we added a final blog on how we organised our trip so if you feel curious about how we did that or, even better, inspired to do it yourself, take a look and start planning. The beginning of a new year is a wonderful time for dreams. Especially those full of grá!

Day 185 4 January ...are slowly getting back to normal at home. It’s a bit overwhelming adjusting to having possessions again after so many months of only the basics. Things around us seem so familiar but yet strangely surreal. Emily spent most of her day in town catching up with friends and her dad. Gill sorted out a flat tyre on the car and did a supermarket shop but couldn’t face unpacking. This evening, we posted our New Zealand video to give you a taste of Christmas in the sunshine. Spoiler alert: Tomorrow will be our last day-by-day. Gulp...

Day 184 3 January ...woke at 6am in Singapore at a hotel near the airport after a good night’s sleep and headed back to the airport for the last day of our world trip. From what we could see fleetingly of the capital from the taxi, the streets are well-designed and spotlessly clean. Our third flight of the journey home was to New Delhi but there we ran into fog issues and so our final flight to Milan was delayed by three hours. To pass the time, we wrote a fun A to Z list of some grá memories. Unsurprisingly, there were lots of Italians onboard the plane and Emily was thrilled to speak Italian for the first time in six months. The flight felt longer than the scheduled 8.5 hours and passport control and baggage collection took a painstaking 1.5 hours. When we came out of the arrival gate, a group of Emily’s friends from the Rowing Club were waiting for her with a big Welcome Home sign (see our photos) and Gill’s friends, Candice and Bernie, who had come to bring us home, had spritz aperol, flowers, soup and another welcome sign waving! It was an emotional moment of hugs, some disbelief and laughter bordering on tears. Once we got home, our good friends, Nelly and Mario, who have done so much in looking after the house while we were away, were waiting with the keys and a warm, cosy house for us. More hugs, gratitude and huge appreciation of all this support. We walked around our home hugging each other with huge smiles. It feels wonderful to be back!  

IN THE AIR BETWEEN NEW ZEALAND AND SINGAPORE

Day 183 2 January ...commenced our journey home. Ryan decided not to start his day with emotional, crying females at the airport and so he said his goodbyes and gave his breath-defying hugs at home. Dan gave us a back pat.  Invercargill Airport is tiny; check-in took a matter of minutes and then we sat with Lucy and Kate eating our breakfast but not really tasting it. The two weeks have been packed with busyness and we seem to have run out of time without having had some important conversations. It was hard to let go from those last hugs and walk through the departure gate. We hardly spoke on the flight to Christchurch, just watched the beautiful landscape below from the tiny propeller plane through wet eyes. We had a couple of hours layover and then boarded the ten hour flight to Singapore (see our Instagram). 

BLUFF, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Day 182 1 January ...had to pack up and say goodbye to the holiday hut and the forest. It was time to return to Invercargill and prepare for leaving New Zealand. We went out for dinner to mark the end of our visit and then did some final jobs at home. Gill read the last bedtime story to Lucy and Ryan. It’s difficult to leave part of your family so far away. 

BLUE CLIFFS, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Day 181 31 December ...got stuck straight into the tricky jigsaw as soon as we got up and stayed at it until it was completed (see our photos). Everyone was totally hooked and couldn’t resist the challenge as they passed by to sit down and add a bit. But, darn, by the end we realised that two pieces were missing and no amount of searching revealed them. This afternoon, a family friend arrived to spend New Year and we all played cards, ate and relaxed together. As midnight approached, we sat outside at the fire pit and saw the New Year in under a star-filled sky. Then Kate suggested a little walk down a forest track to see tiny glow worms. Goodbye 2018 - it’s been a blast. Hello 2019, what joy, grá and luck (see the blog) do you have in store for us all?

Day 180 30 December ...were joined at the holiday hut by Kate’s best friend, Julie, and her family for the day. They spilled out of a car packed with kids, food, body-boards and excitement. The children joined Emily, Lucy and Ryan and they spent the day playing cards, romping on the beach and building huts in the forest beside the house. The men had a go at floundering and caught a few for dinner while Kate and Julie marshalled children in and out of wetsuits and the sea, provided a constant flow of food all day and talked animatedly non-stop catching up on all the news. Gill was suffering from sandfly bites and spent her day indoors with Julie’s mother-in-law working on a fiendishly tricky Christmas jigsaw puzzle.

Day 179 29 December ...had a calm start to the day after yesterday’s exciting helicopter trip! Gill finished writing the monthly newsletter for month five and sent it to subscribers. If you haven’t yet subscribed and would like to receive it, click on the link below and fill in your email address. Around midday, we went body boarding. The beach and surf here are absolutely ideal for it and adults and kids alike get stuck in. We saw lots and lots of hikers who were coming off the Humpridge Track and walking the last stretch along the beach. Full of admiration for them. This afternoon, Emily and the kids worked on a large jigsaw puzzle while Gill and Kate pottered through jobs and perhaps had a glass of wine to end the day.

Day 178 28 December ...had a huge Christmas treat from Gill’s parents and Kate and Dan- an awesome ride in a helicopter! The hut is located on the popular walking path of the Humpridge Track and the plan was to fly up to the ridge to see the views and trail. Dan first took the chopper around the coast to a spot he knew had crayfish. So he took the kids, Ryan and Lucy, with everyone in wetsuits, and he went diving for the crayfish. When they came back with their haul of humungous shellfish (see our photos), Emily, Gill and Kate climbed into the chopper and we flew over the Rowallan Forest and landed on part of the ridge. We were speechless as we took off - the view from the cockpit was indescribable. At the top, we looked all around us at the breathtaking scenery and our pilot, Sam, pointed out the landmarks. Then we flew to the Percy Burn viaduct which was opened in 1923 to transport logs from the forest to a sawmill at Port Craig. It was heady stuff to walk across and imagine trains running over it a hundred years ago. The last part of our trip was heading down to the beach where we left the helicopter to walk for an hour through the forest and along the beach back to the hut. An unforgettable experience! Watch the video to get a taste.

Day 177 27 December ...said an early goodbye to Dan’s parents, sister and her family as they all headed off for the next part of their Christmas/Summer holidays. Kate drove us to Riverton because we needed to visit a pharmacy and that was the closest to the hut. It’s a three hour round trip so it’s not exactly ‘popping into town’. After lunch, we headed down to the beach where Emily and Ryan used up excess energy romping around on the sand (see our photos). Gill and Kate went for a long beach walk with eyes searching the pebbles for treasures whilst chatting about the meaning of life. Back at home, plans were set in motion for a very exciting and huge treat tomorrow. Stay tuned.

Day 176 26 December ...all slept in quite late and the tide was already turning as we had breakfast. We piled into the vehicles quickly to go to the beach before it was too late. The weather was a bit cooler and the sandflies were out in impressive force so the kids jumped into the sea with their body boards while the adults watched from the beach clothed from head to foot in an attempt to avoid nasty nips from these mini black monsters. They are remarkably resistant to all forms of bug spray and we have taken to rubbing ourselves down with Dettol disinfectant which is a favourite local solution to beat the bites. Seems to work and, as a bonus, we smell remarkably clean! Back at the house, we did some general gardening jobs and then the afternoon unfolded with drinks and chats in the sun and some time online updating our website as we discovered the internet connection was strong enough. This evening, Dan and Lucy made a beer batter to coat the flounder fish that were caught and gutted yesterday (see our photos) and we feasted on them cooked on the barbecue. A much-needed gentle Boxing Day.

Day 175 25 December ...woke and dressed hurriedly to be with the kids as they discovered their gifts from Santa but, alas! we are out of practice on the speed needed for this annual race. They were working their way through their stockings with whoops of excitement and we joined in to find surprises in ours too. Kate has brought a Northern Irish tradition to her New Zealand family in the form of Plum Duff, a rich fruitcake which is sliced, fried in butter and eaten with thick slices of good bacon. For our family, this means Christmas morning and is a sacred ritual. However, what we did next was not a normal Christmas Day activity for us. As soon as breakfast was over, we headed to the beach with kids in new wetsuits to body board perfect waves while the men expertly caught a netful of flounder fish. This worked up a good appetite and so we soon headed back to the hut to start preparing the Christmas lunch of turkey, ham, stuffing, potatoes, carrots and gravy. Pretty much the traditional fare as at home except that we sat outside to eat it under a huge awning which shaded us from the hot sun. Slowly people drifted away after lunch to find a quiet place to sleep and digest while the kids got stuck into building huge Lego constructions and reading books from Santa.

Day 174 24 December ...set off with the kids each carrying beef bait tied to sticks and a sturdy net to catch freshwater crayfish in a nearby pond. Lucy and Ryan gave us lots of expert tips and soon we were landing the little crawlies like pros. Then we had another trip to the beach to ride more waves on the body boards and a dip in the hot tub back at the house before we started the serious preparations for Santa’s arrival. Reindeer Food was sprinkled outside along with Grinch Repellent to ensure the best conditions possible as there was some anxiety that Santa may not know we weren’t in our normal homes. Inside, a plate of snacks for the big red man and Rudolph was set out along with all the stockings and everyone hopped into bed on their best behaviour hoping fervently that our names are all featuring on the Nice List. See our photos.

Day 173 23 December ...packed up rucksacks, bags, food, Christmas presents, wetsuits, diving gear, two 4x4 vehicles, trailer, boat, dog, 2 children and 4 adults. Then we set off to Kate and Dan’s hut around the coast. At Tuatapere, we met Dan’s parents and sister with her family and travelled the last part of the journey in convoy along gravel roads which got progressively rougher the deeper into the protected forest we drove. The ‘hut’ turned out to be a two-story house with a stunning view down over the Blue Cliffs forest to the sea beyond and Stewart Island in the distance. Everyone worked quickly unpacking the caravans and cars, setting up the kitchen and getting the selection of beverages into chilly bins. Then it was time to celebrate the arrival with beers, wine, nibbles and an impressive view (see our photos). The kids were bursting to use their body boards so we piled back into cars to go down to the beach; the men caught flounder fish and a small shark with nets while the kids braved the waters seemingly oblivious to the chilly wind. Back at the hut, the generator was switched on to give us lights and the wood burner was lit to warm everyone up before bed.

BLUFF, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Day 171+172 21+22 December ...somehow have missed a day in posting our activities. We’ve been taken up with last-minute Christmas shopping, baking (yet more) mince pies and our special Plum Duff, icing the Christmas cake, grass cutting and packing. On Sunday morning we’re off to Papatotara to Kate’s holiday house which is off-grid and offline to spend our Christmas deep in nature. That means that we won’t be posting updates daily but we’ll still write them and post them once we have internet access again. It also means that our journey around the world is coming to an end and our emotions are high. We feel very close to you all at this special family time of the year as you have accompanied us all along the way. Sending you the warmest of wishes for a Merry Christmas with your loved ones! Open our photos and videos to see our little gift to you. Le grá, Gill and Emily

Day 170 20 December ...had a busy first day in Bluff. This morning, while Kate was at work, we headed out with the kids to walk at the coast and take our picture at the end-of-New-Zealand sign. We walked along a Heritage Trail and right down to a pebble beach. We were busy collecting pebbles to paint when Lucy spotted a seal in the water. It was rolling around in the waves and coming closer to us. A few minutes later it climbed up onto a rock right beside us and in fact was a sea lion, not a seal. We spent 20 minutes watching him scratch and groom himself and he let us know if he felt we were getting too close. It was spectacular being right beside him. We popped into visit Lucy and Ryan’s school on the way home (see our photos). Once Kate finished work at lunchtime, she and Gill went to the beautician to cash in on a gift voucher by enjoying a steam, mud, rub and tub treatment. We floated home feeling soft and smelling delicious to indulge in a treat of Dan cooking crayfish on the barbecue for dinner. All-in-all, it was a day of indulgence and treats.

Day 169 19 December ...awoke in Christchurch to rain and cold which was a shock to the system. So we zipped the trouser legs on to our shorts for the first time in weeks, donned the single long-sleeve top we have and borrowed a hotel umbrella for a walk to the cinema to watch Emma Thompson’s brilliant The Children Act. Tea and something seemed like a good idea on the way home and we found ourselves stepping back to the 1950’s in The Rose Café with groups of little old ladies, porcelain tea cups, date scones and roses adorning everything. See our photos. By 4pm, we were on a small, propellor engine plane heading to Invercargill with our excitement growing. After the smooth landing, we piled into the car with Kate, Lucy and Ryan and headed to their farm in Bluff which is pretty much as far south you can go in New Zealand before reaching Antartica.

Day 168 18 December ...got up early to pack and put the house in order before heading to the airport for our flight to Sydney. Gill logged onto her work network during the four hour layover and marvelled at how much of that working world has been wiped from her brain. Early onset Alzheimers or separate planets? The next flight took us to Christchurch, landing just after midnight. Cash machine, SIM card, Uber through rain and chilly darkness to our hotel. Thoughts about the contrast of our comfortable world versus some of the places we’ve been. 

CAIRNS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA

Day 167 17 December ...spent a frustrating day dealing with technology that was out to get us. It was one of those days that made us realise how reliant we are on this trip on internet connection and a phone working correctly. Plans to spend our last afternoon in Australia out in the local botanical gardens were eventually ditched as our ‘quick morning jobs’ ended up taking all day. Our month in Oz has flown by and suddenly tomorrow is travel day. We’re heading to the last country on our journey and it’s to be with family at an important time of the year.

Day 166 16 December ...jungle surfed. Don’t know what that means? Don’t worry, neither did we. Not really actually until we were hooked to a zip line and launched through the Daintree Rainforest treetops, not once, not twice but six times. Moreover, each time was a different challenge so you had just about come to terms with one feat before you were facing something even more scary (Gill’s description)/exciting (Emily’s description). The surfing was high up in the canopy and each zip line ended at a platform where the guides told us lots of interesting facts about the flora and fauna. This is the oldest rainforest in the world and is the only World Heritage site which overlooks another World Heritage site, the Great Barrier Reef. The remarkable humidity and heat were energy-zapping and our whole bodies were slick with sweat for the two hours it took. On the platforms, we had our eyes peeled for cassowary birds on the ground and Bennett’s tree kangaroos which, unbelievably, live right up in the trees. They are great climbers and jump from branch to branch. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot either of them them as they are both pretty elusive but Gill did take up the suggestion to taste some bush tucker in the form of green tree ants. Their abdomen is high in vitamin C and protein and tastes a bit like lime. You have to eat them fast before they get a chance to bite you. See our photos.

Day 165 15 December ...celebrated Cyclone Owen NOT reaching Cairns and instead embraced the day of pouring rain by lightning a fire and making (more) mince pies. Not a real fire, of course. It’s 30 deg celsius outside, we’re not that crazy. See our photos for how to do Christmas in the rainforest.

Day 164 14 December ...went to an aboriginal park to get an introduction to the culture of Australia’s indigenous people. The show was very entertaining and informative using storytelling, video and dance to share their folklore - the beliefs, art, body painting etc. But also how these communities live today with a foot in both past and present. We learnt about the bush food that is eaten, how weapons and musical instruments are made and we even got a chance to make fire using sticks, throw a boomerang (used to bring down birds and small prey) and launch a spear (for bigger game)! See our photos. Australia is having a national debate at the moment about whether they wish to become a Republic and renounce their tie to the Commonwealth. However, alongside this debate is the discussion of better recognition and inclusion of indigenous Australians, who refer to themselves as First Nation people to reflect their historic link to the land. We watched a good television debate on the topic recently alongside Lesley (who was a politician here and is still involved with empowering women in politics) and Ross (whose long career revolved around education and schools). So interesting to get their insights into the discussions. However, we’re only scraping the surface.

Day 163 13 December ...spent the morning at the pool in glorious sunshine. This afternoon, we did some online jobs and were delighted to see that donations to the Ecole du Bon Berger are coming in. It’s thrilling to see that things are starting! We’ve added an extra little Christmas something to our website now - take a look below... 

Day 162 12 December ...ticked a major box as we went diving on the Great Barrier Reef! Gill intended just to snorkel but Emily had other plans for her and employed her best Pester Power skills until she won. We were onboard by 8:00 and set off across the open sea to Norman Reef, 60km from Cairns. The Barrier Reef is colossal - 2,300 km in length and about 1.5 times bigger than the UK in area. Once we had moored, Emily (who already has her diving qualification) togged up and headed off for two dives. Gill received a short training course and then it was a large stride off the boat into the water for her and two other novices. First step was to descend to a training bar a few metres below the boat to practice the basic skills. Then the instructor linked arms with the three of us and we set off in a chummy clump slowly through the waters. Soon however he let us go and we were in charge of ourselves whilst following him. It felt so natural and peaceful to be gliding around the underwater world marvelling at corals, caves, fish and lots of foreign life forms. As soon as she surfaced, Gill booked a second dive for after lunch. This time there was no hand-holding, it was straight into the water and we set off in a group of four to explore the reef with our instructor pointing out different species and writing their names on his underwater board for us to read. We saw parrot fish, sea cucumbers, butterfly fish, cardinal fish, maori wrasse and more. We spent the rest of the afternoon snorkelling and swimming against the impressively strong Eastern Australian Current which carries many fish and turtles down along the east coast. We arrived back to shore about 4 p.m. tired out with all the excitement, thrills and adventure but on an extreme high. See our photos and Instagram.

Day 161 11 December ...had to say goodbye to Ross and Lesley as they headed off to Brisbane for a week and we stay on in their house. We were sorry to see them go because we’ve really enjoyed our time together but we are already writing the list of things to do for when they come to Italy next year. After dropping them at the airport, we headed to Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures to learn about crocodiles, snakes and wallabies and to cuddle a koala (see our photos)! It was a really entertaining day and we will never paddle or swim in rivers here as a result. Waaaaay too scary. Back at home, the neighbour, Terry, called in to let us know that the cyclone that had headed out to sea on Sunday is on its way back to land and he was checking that we have a generator etc ready. He must have felt bad after he saw our horrified faces because he came back a few minutes later with mangoes from his garden to cheer us up and proceeded to cut them up into a box for the fridge. We asked if he liked mince pies and he said he hadn’t had homemade ones since his mother died. That was too touching and so we sent him home with some of our stash and the promise of more if he likes them. Mince pies in return for mangoes and cyclone protection seems like a good exchange.

Day 160 10 December ...woke up to find that we had slept through the aftermath of a cyclone unaware of the howling winds and driving rain. Ross decided that this was the ideal opportunity to go to see the waterfall in the Barron Gorge National Park, part of a World Heritage site. During the dry season, the falls are reduced to a mere trickle but in the wet season they can transform into a raging, thundering torrent of water, engulfed in mist. And we were lucky enough to find them thus (see our photos). It’s a spectacular sight and the rainforest where they are located has a beautiful boardwalk to follow. Walking through the forest is like being inside a tropical dome of a botanical gardens with the heat, humidity and sounds. This afternoon, Ross’s wife, Lesley, came back from her business trip in Myanmar and we had a fantastic Christmas-like dinner of stuffed roast pork, rosemary roast potatoes and veggies followed by some of their delicious Christmas cake ice-cream and lots of laughs.

Day 159 9 December ...are stunned by the huge volume of water falling from the sky. Just like in the cricket, rain has stopped play. But it is the tropics, after all. Incessant downpour all day meant that there was no chance to get outside. Instead, we went to see The Grinch at the cinema and watched more films afterwards at home accompanied by a second batch of mince pies. Our ‘must-do-in-Australia’ list remains unticked.

Day 158 8 December ...had an important morning mission. Emily sprang out of bed at 7:00, ready for the challenge. She set off with Ross in the car and they analysed, measured and debated until a specimen was chosen. Back at home, it was unloaded from the jeep with lots of huffing and puffing and guided carefully into the house where it was safely secured upright in a central location. Then the real work began. Boxes were opened and, as often is the case the world over, the discovery of illumination that was packed away a year ago in perfect condition somehow had defaulted to faulty. Emily had an impromptu lesson in soldering and eventually a little celebration dance was performed. A ladder was needed for the next tricky steps and then things progressed to the balancing of colours and making everything ‘just right’. After hours of concentration and joint effort, we needed a cup of tea and mince pie as we sat to gaze, admire and compliment. Curious? Watch our Instagram video.

Day 157 7 December ...headed to the farmers’ market in town to get fresh supplies. The mangoes here are out of this world, better than any we have ever tasted, and so we have been gorging on them since we arrived in Cairns. Gill went for a yoga class in a local community hall which was decorated for Christmas and featured Santa being pulled on his sleigh by kangaroos (see our photos). Deliciously kitsch! Afterwards, she joined the group for morning tea and the swapping of life stories. Many of the ladies have lived in other countries with difficult conditions and it was really interesting to hear about all these experiences. At home, Emily applied herself to her studies in solidarity with her classmates who are sitting exams at the moment. This evening, we watched a favourite Christmas film which (we admit) is a terrible American chick flick and were impressed that Ross stalwartly sat through it all.

Day 156 6 December ...Gill got up early to walk with Ross along the Cairns esplanade before the heat took hold. The footpaths were alive with people out doing early morning exercise and dog walking. Ross is extremely easy company and the conversation flowed as we covered many topics comparing and contrasting our lives on different sides of the planet. We were home by 7:15 and the three of us tucked into bacon and eggs beside the pool for breakfast. Then Emily and Gill decided that an indoor day avoiding the intense sun was in order and so we set off first for the Cairns Aquarium which turned out to be a wonderful few hours of discovery, talks and feeding sessions. Next up was the cinema to watch Bohemian Rhapsody which tells Freddie Mercury’s fantastic story. We drove home with the songs ringing in our heads but sadness in our hearts that he died so young.

Day 155 5 December ...saw photos of Christmas mince pies in a magazine and the longing hit us hard so we got baking. They proved too hard to resist while still warm and crumbly which meant that 12 were quickly reduced to 6 (see our pics) Emily spent a languid afternoon alternating between the sunbed and swimming pool and then finished off in the indoor jacuzzi bath. Gill tackled some overdue internet tasks and washed the grubby backpacks, runners and working gloves. We’re getting used to setting down to sleep at night amidst the Dolby Surround sounds of tree frogs and geckos emanating from the garden once darkness falls.

Day 154 4 December ...woke in crisp hotel sheets each in a bed of our own and ate a hearty buffet breakfast with all our favourites. Oh, how the simple things bring such pleasure and thrills! We flew to Cairns and were collected by Ross, our host for the next two weeks. He took us for an introductory tour of Cairns and right on up into the hills behind through a section of rainforest. There were lots of brown leaves on the ground which gave an autumnal feel but in fact they have fallen due to drought and it’s not normal at all for the forest floor to be carpeted in brown here. Afterwards, we arrived at Ross and Lesley’s home where they have lived for 33 years and have moulded into a slice of tropical paradise. Clean white interiors with huge glass windows all around look out into a lush garden filled with hundreds of plants growing up, hanging down, peeking through or standing in water (see our photos). Several pools attract resident frogs which start their evening cacophony at sundown and continue until about 10pm. Some doors are even left open all night for the frogs to come indoors if they wish. One of the many bonuses of staying in people’s homes rather than hotels is having access to their books which divulge their interests and passions. Here we can read about rainforests, tropical gardening, local birds, aboriginal culture, women’s rights and Australian politics - so many tantalising topics. But first, gotta read our way through two huge folders of Things To Do in Queensland and slowly plan our two glorious weeks here!

BIG SWING ORGANICS FARM, NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA

Day 153 3 December ...spent the morning packing our rucksacks and cleaning the cabin. Christy is trying to implement the ‘Return to Zero’ strategy for volunteer workers which means that after you have finished a task, everything needs to be cleaned and returned to the organised starting point. Photographs and simple instructions provide the guidance so guess which of us volunteered to set this up for the cabin? Clue: it wasn’t the teenager... After we said our goodbyes to everyone on the farm, we took a bus trip to Brisbane for an overnight stay at a hotel so that we are close to the airport for our flight to Cairns tomorrow. We’re going to miss our evening drinks and long, not-so-philosophical chats with the Monopoly Vulture a.k.a. David.

Day 152 2 December ...embraced our inner child by creating a Treasure Hunt for Toto and Flint which ended with a Christmas make & do to get us into the festive mood (see our Instagram video). We’re having trouble feeling Christmassy here as it’s hot and sticky with bright sunshine and summer colours all around. What is confusing is that the colours and images are from a cold, Northern hemisphere Christmas, like Santas on sleighs, snowy scenes, everything in red and green and it’s just so inconsistent with what’s going on around us. There must be a market to create a whole different vibe using colours like white, green, silver and natural wood to fit the season here. This evening, we played a cut-throat game of Monopoly with David, the other volunteer, and he wiped us off the board. Went to bed in a huff planning our revenge but with no time to execute it as we are leaving here tomorrow to travel northwards.

Day 151 1 December ...got up at the scrake of dawn and headed to Byron Bay for a sunrise kayak hoping to see wild dolphins. We arrived at 5:30 and dragged our kayaks down to the ocean along with about 30 other people. We paddled out to Cape Byron and couldn’t believe how crystal clear the waters were. Some turtles popped their heads up but disappeared immediately as soon as they saw us, back to continue riding the East Australian Current - just like in Finding Nemo. We spotted several dolphins pods but they were too busy breakfasting to come play. We jumped into the cool waters about halfway through the three hour tour to cool off. Getting back into kayaks from the deep sea isn’t particularly elegant- just so you know. Afterwards, we went for breakfast ourselves in the gorgeous surfing town of Byron Bay to eat spicy slow-cooked beans and poached eggs and then we headed to see the view from their famous and spectacular lighthouse. See our photos on Instagram for a taste of our day!

Day 150 30 November ...got up extra early to have breakfast at the Mullum Farmer’s Market. It was already warm and sunny at 7:30 when we arrived and all the many stalls were doing a brisk trade. We indulged in Japanese rolls, Chinese dumplings and Thai noodles and finished off with French pastries - just because it was all too irresistible. We were back on the farm for 9:30 and spent the day painting Toto’s bedroom walls. This afternoon, we took a photo to accompany a special message that we posted on Instagram- take a look!

Day 149 29 November ...had a girlie day in ‘Australia’s biggest little town’ as Mullumbimby is known. We perused the shops - lots of macrame, incense, organic cotton tie-dyes, health food and bare feet. Then we spent a happy, chatty hour at the beautician getting smooth legs and painted toenails. We lunched at the Magic Pot on samosas, curried pumpkin quinoa, baklava and paleo brownie and afterwords Emily had free rein in the best sweet shop we’ve ever seen. Such hard decisions to make on your day off. Then DJ took us to Spaghetti Circus School where he teaches circus skills to children in a big hangar kitted out as kids paradise. This is serious stuff - the kids learn every aspect of circus performance: trapeze, acrobatics, juggling, silks, clowning - all based on resilience, teamwork and trust (see our photos). We were impressed!

Day 148 28 November ...can’t understand how we keep getting involved with home improvement projects as we travel the world! We spent all day working our butts off transforming the cabin where we sleep. We scrubbed all the inside walls and floors and organised cupboards and drawers. Outside was like one of those garden makeover programmes on telly: we sprayed weeds and grass with salt water, spread gravel, laid pallets as a walkway, scrubbed outdoor furniture and shelves and tidied up lots of random debris. We’re crawling gingerly into bed tonight as our bodies are arching with tired muscles. But looking at the before and after pictures is rewarding!

Day 147 27 November ...were knee-deep in composting ingredients. Fortunately we had welly boots on. DJ took us to a dairy farm where he buys milk as he had made an agreement with the owner: trading cow poo for avocados. So we swept and raked the pasture, where the cows stand while waiting to be milked, gathering all that lovely rich manure and loading it into to back of the ute (see our photos). Back at the farm, DJ enthusiastically explained the composition of a successful compost heap: wood chippings, manure, garden waste, coffee bean husks, cardboard boxes. When he peeled back the tarpaulin covering the heap, the dogs went crazy with excitement at this lovely, warm pile of utopia smells and had to be dragged out by the hind legs before we closed the tarpaulin.

Day 146 26 November ...sent an email to all our newsletter subscribers with the details of the new website for the Ecole du Bon Berger in Rwanda and now it’s difficult to type as our fingers are so tightly crossed in the hope that it will inspire everyone to donate! We’re asking you to support the school with whatever you can because every cent counts to them and they are making a huge difference to the lives of so many - children and adults alike. It’s easy peasy to donate: click on the ‘Our projects’ page, read the three projects that are described, choose your favourite, click on ‘I’d like to donate’ and fill in your details on the GoFundMe page. That’s it! Or you might prefer to set up a regular direct debit to the school. Just click on the fourth project entitled ‘Direct debit’ and you’ll find the details you need to set up the debit at your bank. If you have any questions or concerns at all, please get in touch with us. If you want to know about what led to the school being set up, let us know and we’ll send you an email in which we tell the story of the inspirational founders, Justine and Robert.

Day 145 25 November ...spent our morning grappling with the donations feature on the new website for the Ecole du Bon Berger and eventually we cracked it! Now the website is finally ready to share. If you have already subscribed to our newsletter, look out for our email in your Inbox. If you haven’t yet subscribed, click on the button below to add your email address and we’ll take it from there. This afternoon, we went to the secluded Killen Falls for a spot of wild swimming (see our photos) which involved a tricky clamber across rocks to reach a dramatic waterfall that drops into a rocky swimming hole. We picnicked on bread rolls and veggie dips as we watched others bravely stepping barefoot on the sharp rocks under the water to get out into the middle of the swimming hole. We did eventually venture in ourselves but it took us ages and we didn’t stay in for long. Our conclusion was that Australian locals are braver and hardier than Irish visitors!

Day 144 24 November ...had a very welcome day off! Emily studied hard this morning while Gill wrote Christmas cards. It was hot and sunny and the air was full of kookaburra, currawong and laughing mynah birdsong which is foreign to our European ears. This afternoon, we went for a walk to Goonengerry National Park. It’s a lovely forest walk but we felt very nervous about meeting a snake and so we hurried to a famous lookout point to admire the view and take some photos and then were thankful to get back to the car safely. An ice-cream calmed our nerves and restored the weekend feeling again.

Day 143 23 November ...finished organising and cleaning the kitchen and most of the laundry area, clearing, washing and sorting as we went. David, the other volunteer here, cleaned cobwebs from around the windows and the outside nooks and crannies of the house whilst trying to avoid the big spiders that fell out of their webs. Mostly the volunteers work outside on the farm but Christy took advantage for a few days to help her get the house under control which is hard to do alone while looking after two small children, various volunteers and the demands a developing organic farm. This evening, Gill sewed curtain hems and partook of a few glasses of Friday Wine to mark the end of a busy week.

Day 142 22 November ...went to the beach and met a python, huge lizard and ibus along the way (see our Instagram) as you do in Australia. Back at the farm, two wallabies paid a visit to our cabin but didn’t stay for photos. We walked around Mullumbimby while we waited for our bus and noticed an extraordinary number of barefooted people on the streets. It’s hippie central here...

Day 141 21 November ...spent our day working in the kitchen. Seven hours of tidying, sorting, organising, baking, cooking, washing and cleaning. The surfaces weren’t the only things wiped by the end - we were wrecked. Tomorrow is a day off and we are going to the beach. Phew!

Day 140 20 November ...did more weeding this morning - can’t say that it’s our favourite job. However, the dogs, Disco and Ladybug, stayed right beside us all the way. If one of us headed off in a different direction, the dogs automatically split up and one accompanied each of us. It’s very reassuring to have them at your side. They jump straight into the area where you are planning to work and check it out thoroughly, even hopping up into the avocado tree to examine from above. (See our photos). We were delighted with this personalised canine protection until Disco diverted from bodyguard duty and went off to catch a humungous rat and proceeded to eat it all. We were totally revolted! We spent this afternoon in the house helping to organise the kitchen and planning some work on the cabin where we sleep. Organising has been a recurrent theme throughout our travels. Seems to be a problem the world-over.

Day 139 19 November ...slept 12 hours and woke only at midday. Jet lag is still haunting us. Luckily it was a morning off so we didn’t disgrace ourselves with our new host. After a quick sandwich, we headed out to the farm to pull weeds from under the avocado trees. Part one is to send the two terrier dogs in under the trees to check for snakes or anything else we wouldn’t want to put our hands onto. Part two is to start pulling grasses, weeds and creepers and chopping anything else that resists a tug. Part three is piling everything into wheelbarrows which are emptied onto a weed pile to be used when making compost (see our Instagram). We did four hours under the beating Australian sun stopping just to drink water and stretch out our backs. Once the sun set, we had hot showers and dinner in the main house with Christy and then gingerly made our way back in the dark to our cabin for bedtime.

Day 138 18 November ...slept in. When you are taking an early morning flight, this isn’t good. Isn’t good at all. We woke at 7:05 and our flight was at 8:45. It was a panicked, frantic last pack of the rucksacks followed by a dash to the train station and the fastest bag drop, security clearance and run to the gate ever. Took the first half hour on board for our breathing to return to normal. Once we arrived in Brisbane, we took a bus back down the Gold Coast to Mullumbimby where we were collected by our farm host, Christy, along with her two young children. We were given a tour of the farm (organic avocado production) and a long list of the insects, reptiles, animals and mammals to avoid along with what to do if any of them bite or sting us. Made us want to go back to the relative safety of Rwanda. Our accommodation is a cabin on the farm with a compost toilet and only cold running water for the moment. This is quite a stride outside our comfort zone. Be brave, Little Bear..

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

Day 137 17 November ...took a big red tour bus this morning around Sydney - best way to see a city in a short time. We hopped off at the Opera House, of course, for photos and filming. Sydney is a mix of Victorian red brick buildings and glass skyscrapers. There are sporadic Christmas decorations around but they look somewhat out of place in the sunshine. Back at the hotel, Emily studied while Gill worked out how to get from Brisbane airport tomorrow to the farm where we are working from Monday. It’s an early start for the flight, followed by a bus ride down the Gold Coast to Byron Bay.

Day 136 16 November ...beat a hasty retreat from the grotty hostel as soon as we woke. It was freezing and dirty - our few days in Sydney deserve better. While we were waiting to check into a Travelodge, we went to the hairdressers for a much-needed hair pamper. Then we wandered around the shops trying to come to terms with Christmas decorations featuring beach balls and barbecues. Early to bed tonight to try to beat the jet lag so that we can spend the day touring tomorrow.

Day 134 & 135 14 & 15 November ...lost our grá banner - or rather, Gill did. Along with her yoga mat. Usually we wrap our backpacks in cling film before we travel to keep them clean and all the straps contained during their time in the aircraft hold. But we forgot to buy it before we left Rwanda and so Gill was carrying the mat with the banner rolled inside instead of it being attached to her checked-in backpack. Recipe for disaster. She left it behind at the gate in Abu Dhabi as we boarded the last of three flights over two days of travelling. Will have to see if it can be saved... Once we arrived in Autralia, Emily was overwhelmed by Sydney airport and city - sparkly shops, Christmas decorations and brand names that we haven’t seen for months. However, we were underwhelmed by our hostel and so will be searching for an alternative tomorrow as soon as we waken. But first, sleeeeeep...

NYAMATA, RWANDA

Day 133 13 November ...cried. We had planned a small goodbye lunch with the staff but it turned into a banquet with speeches, dancing, gifts, photos and tears. (See our photos) The team made a fantastic spread of salads, savoury banana casserole, vegetables, sautéed potatoes, meat stew and fresh pineapple juice. Everyone heaped their plates high and were too concentrated on eating to talk during the meal. Afterwards, we presented the new school website even though it’s still not quite finished and then we tried to thank everyone for how we felt about our time with them. That’s when it got tricky. Emily got as far as saying ‘Of all the African countries we could have chosen to visit when we were planning this trip, I’m so glad we chose Rwanda...’ before she dissolved into tears. The ladies decided that a celebration dance was needed and soon we were all swaying along to the beat being drummed on a table. A speech from Justine in Belgium was read out and then we received the highest honour of being gifted a wooden plaque of a cow and milk offering. In Rwanda, this means that our families are joined. And they are. Our most sincere ‘murakoze’ to you Ecole du Bon Berger and Rwanda. Our hearts are bursting with grá. Travelling to Australia via Nairobi and Abu Dhabi now.

Day 132 12 November ...had an extraordinary day. We got up early to take our puppy, Maxie, to be spayed and vaccinated. Pets are not common at all in Rwanda and most people are very scared of dogs. However, Maxie has won everyone’s heart here and she has become part of the family (even though she steals shoes from all over the neighbourhood). So we needed to be sure that she has the best chance of continuing to live here after we leave on Wednesday. We dropped her to the vet and then did lots of jobs in Kigali including a visit to the post office, one of only ten in Rwanda. There is no postal delivery service here as streets outside the city have no names and houses have no numbers. While we waited for our packages to be weighed, the electricity switched off. This is a very regular occurrence in Rwanda and you just have to be patient until it comes back on. We waited about half an hour, filled in lots of little postal documents and eventually our parcels and postcards were dispatched. Lunch was with a new Irish friend we had made, Elly, and her friend, Rosalyn, in an Italian restaurant. It was only the second restaurant we’ve been to on our trip and it turned out to be excellent. Emily beamed with delight as she read the menu and made happy noises as she scoffed her orecchiette with salsiccia and asiago cheese. The Irish craic was great and we headed back to collect Maxie on a high. Back at the house, Gill went into Nyamata town with two helpers to find the ingredients for a big goodbye lunch tomorrow and sheets of plywood for a last project at the Resource Centre. The evening was spent helping Maxie get comfortable and settle down to sleep after her traumatic day, poor baby.

Day 131 11 November ...spent hours and hours at the hotel on their wifi trying to finish the school’s new website. It’s a race against time now and it felt a bit like a stressful day at work. Emily made a short Instagram video of yesterday’s Ceremony Day. Feels important to keep all these mementos because it’s the little things in a photo or video that transport you back to that moment even years later.

Day 130 10 November ...got up early, put on our best mushananas (see our photos) and waded knee-deep into Ceremony Day at the school! Gill collected the entrance fee at the gate, storing the cash in a brown paper bag just like a native. Emily found a good use for the rolls of crepe paper (that no-one knew what to do with) by decorating the tent with a Rwandan flag frill. Then she led the Primary 1 class in presenting their story of Farmer Billy in English to the parents. Finally, Gill presented gifts to the five best students of Primary 1 and so our job was done. At last, we all got to eat the freshly-made chapatis, buns and doughnuts that the bakery staff had been making all night. All-in-all, it was lots of chaotic fun but then the hard part came as we had to say goodbye to the kids. They are on their holidays now until January. We can’t believe that our time with them is over. Our hearts are bursting with grá and gratitude!

Day 129 9 November ...were amused by the difference between event organising Rwandan style verses European style. Tomorrow is Ceremony Day at the school and all parents will be there with their children to celebrate this past year. It’s a big event for the school and yet the tent and chairs were ordered early this afternoon, arrived immediately and were set up two hours later. The agenda of the day and menu for some 500 people were decided late afternoon and a team has been cooking since. Quite a contrast to the months of preparation, planning and discussions that are the norm back home!

Day 128 8 November ...we worked flat out with the kids on their last day of school. Gill made hats with the first year nursery while Emily helped her Primary 1 class practice their story for the end of year presentation to parents taking place this Saturday. See our Instagram. Then we both did an art project in English with the class. One step was to glue a page to a card but there was total bewilderment amongst the kids when we produced the Pritt stick glues for them to use. The twist up stick was the highlight of their day. Whoops of delight! We had to bribe them with sweets to make them give the glues back at the end. Don’t tell the teacher...

Day 127 7 November ...spent a busy morning working on our video and then showing the teachers some outdoor games to play with the children. Emily set up an obstacle course and the teachers all had a go. Funny how a sporting challenge brings out the competitive side in people! The teachers all joined in, each trying to outdo the rest and they found their inner child too when we produced the skipping ropes (see our photos). More sport this afternoon as Gill gave one of the teachers a short introduction to yoga to help her stretch stiff muscles and try to combat swollen legs. This dedicated teacher lives over 3km from the school and walks there and back on rough dirt roads each day with the aid of her walking stick.

Day 126 6 November ...were woken at 5:30 this morning by the night guard zealously brushing the paths around the house. Daily life starts early here but that was just a bit too early for us. Emily is in full study mode - currently immersed in the American Revolution in French - and dedicated her day equally zealously. This afternoon, Gill went to visit the Nyamata Genocide Memorial with Eugenie, a good friend of Justine. The site is a church where about 10,000 Tutsis were massacred in one day during the genocide. The church has been fully preserved and it is extremely raw.

Day 125 5 November ...are feeling somewhat emotional! Yesterday we sent an email to those of you who have subscribed to our newsletter telling our news about the website we are building for the Bon Berger school and explaining our motivation behind it. Today, we when we logged on we found lots of messages and emails, each one offering us support and expressing a desire to help. Brilliant! When we shared that initial feedback at the school, people were overwhelmed and there were wet eyes and happy smiles all round. All the running around chasing our tails is going to be worth it - see our Instagram. If you want to receive the email, subscribe at the bottom of the page and we’ll send it to you. We will publish the school website next week and then we are going to ask you to share, share, share. And donate ;-)

Day 124 4 November ...realise that we are currently experiencing the second of Rwanda’s two seasons - the rainy one. Just before the heavens erupt with torrential downpours, a fierce wind announces that you have five minutes to run for cover. We had got used to the sunny season with endless blue skies so this is a bit of a shock. But the positive side is that the water tanks are filling up again. All the water used in the house and school comes from rainwater collected off the roofs. Last week the house tank ran dry and we had to rely on jerrycans for getting washed, flushing the toilet and kitchen use. It takes just a few days of this until you really appreciate turning on a tap and water gushing out!

Day 123 3 November ...kicked back and relaxed after an exceptionally busy week. Emily studied and read and Gill wrote the Fourth Month of Grá email. It has some special news in it so if you have not already subscribed to receive our monthly updates, quickly do so below so that you can find out the news. Keep an eye on your inbox on Sunday!

Day 122 2 November ...spent the morning filming and photographing for the new website. The kids are really excited when they see us with the camera but freeze when it’s actually pointed at them! This afternoon, Gill spent time with the teachers in the Resource Centre showing them how to play the board games and puzzles so they, in turn, can show the kids. The Rwandan teaching method is not very play-focused and the teachers didn’t have exposure to many games or art materials as they went through school so it’s a big learning curve for them. However, they are all very keen to try out new techniques. Next week we will be showing them outdoor games like Piggy in the middle, skipping, hopscotch and Stuck in the mud. Now that will be fun!

Day 121 1 November ...would like to tell you about Leah. Leah is Justine’s 19 year old niece. She has a gentle soul and a beautiful, shy smile. She had a difficult childhood growing up with two parents who had suffered badly during the genocide. She wasn’t doing very well at school and so Justine had the idea to help Leah learn a profession. Leah spent three months learning from scratch how to sew clothes. Now she makes all the school uniforms and sport kits for the entire school of 250 children on her ancient manual machine. She has a wonderful skill and contributes so much to the school. She sits in a tiny, open alcove at the school entrance gate as she sews all day. From there, she can survey the playground filled with laughing kids wearing the clothes she has made. See our photos.

Day 120 31 October ...were surprised by the welcome we got from everyone at the school as we had been away for two days! We slipped straight back into our projects as if we’d never been away. Emily recorded some footage in the classroom for the video we are making. Gill caught up with the teachers who have been using the Resource Centre to get their feedback. Lots of positive comments and delight with having easier access to the materials. A manager has been appointed to look after the Centre and will be learning the ropes in the coming weeks. We spent our afternoon at the hotel using their lovely steady wifi so that Emily could study and Gill could work on the website. We are part of the decor here now.

Day 119 30 October ...were so glad we changed our minds about getting up at 5:30 am to drive to the north part of Akagera National Park. Instead, we had a lie in, a relaxing breakfast and met with our driver at 9:00 for a shorter bush tour. Much more civilised! We set off with our friends in his 4x4 to spend the morning searching for wild animals in particular elephants, crocodiles and hippos. We drove for three hours along really rugged roads, feeling a bit like scrambled eggs. We found a spot at the side of a lake where we sat quietly to watch a few hippos playing silent hid and seek in the water but they didn’t want to come out to let us have a better view. After more driving, we spotted a crocodile crossing the lake lazily but also too far off for a close up inspection. We saw lots of baboons, waterbucks, impala and warthog families all going about their daily business (See our photos and Instagram video). We realised that we had been very lucky yesterday to have seen an elephant, zebras and giraffes. After a much-needed revival baguette (and cuppa for Gill), we hopped back into the car and slowly made our way back to Kigali and eventually on to Nyamata, where Emily was delighted to be reunited with Maxie, her adopted puppy, after three long days of being apart.

Day 118 29 October ..woke at Stephanie and Arnaud’s house in Kigali and set off with their friend Charlotte and her son, Amaury, to Akagera Safari Park in the east of Rwanda. The park was decimated during the genocide and aftermath. It once occupied ten percent of the country but the only way to protect it afterwards was reducing the size and fencing it in to prevent poaching. Since 2010, the park has been managed privately and many species are now thriving again. Have a look at our photos and Instagram to see what we spotted during our afternoon trip. We’re staying in the park tonight but weren’t brave enough to stay in tents in the middle of the park!

Day 117 28 October ...forgot to post! We worked at the school briefly in the morning and then got a lift to Kigali to stay at our friend’s house. Once we got chatting and the wine was opened, somehow the Sunday mood took over and time slipped away taking our good intentions with it.

Day 116 27 October ...took the car and headed into Kigali with a list of jobs to do. However, there were no other vehicles at all on the road. Not one. All we could see were groups of people cutting grass and fixing ditches all along the way. Once we reached Kigali, we found that all the shops were closed and then we learnt that the last Saturday morning of each month is dedicated to Umuganda which is community work. Everyone from age 18 to 65 is warmly encouraged to participate in doing communal projects such as building or maintaining public buildings, roads, parks etc. Umuganda as a concept always existed in Rwandan culture where neighbours would call upon each other to help build a house or do a particularly difficult task together. After the 1963 genocide, it was introduced publicly to help with community spirit and rebuild the country and was reinforced again after the 1994 genocide. The shops opened at midday and so we managed to get some more essential school supplies for the Resource Centre and some foodie treats for us. Driving in Rwanda is truly a mini adventure of its own. Take a look at The Road to Lake Kivu blog to get a flavour!

Day 115 26 October ...are celebrating the opening of the Resource Centre! It’s not completely finished as there are still some things to organise but it’s enough to be operational. Yah! The teachers came to explore this afternoon and were very excited to see that all the teaching materials are now much more accessible. Emily spent the morning at the nearby hotel sipping fresh pineapple juice and using their wifi to study. This afternoon, we recorded Justine and her friend, Therese, speaking their voice overs for the video that we are making for the school. This evening, Justine left to return to Belgium where she works to earn money to send to the school. It was very emotional to say goodbye to her as we have become so deeply involved in this amazing project thanks to her accepting to host us and her incredible dedication to helping so many people. We will tell you the stories of a few of those people here in the coming weeks and you will come to realise that Maman Justine is pure grá....

Day 114 25 October ...started filming for the website we are building for the school. Justine, the school’s founder, is leaving on Saturday and we needed to get her part recorded before she leaves. However, holding a handful of water is easier than getting time with Justine alone as she is managing so many people and projects. So it took all morning to finally get 30 seconds of footage. Have to hope now that it’s enough. This afternoon, we carried on with setting up the Resource Centre. Might even get it open tomorrow, fingers crossed. While you are waiting to see it, take a look at our Sri Lanka video in the meantime.

Day 113 24 October ...have a new video for you to watch! It’s a taste of our two sunny weeks in Sri Lanka. Emily has been battling to find time to get it finished and this morning, she made a last ditch effort and voilà! This afternoon, we completed Part One of Operation Resource Centre. This was the dusty, sweaty part getting shelves into place and going through piles of stocks to see what was worth keeping. Can’t wait to have it ready and see the kids and teachers using it!

Day 112 23 October ...helped some of the kids to paint pictures that will illustrate Emily’s Farmer Billy story for the presentation to the parents. Even though these kids are 7 years old and in Primary One, they didn’t really understand how to paint. That’s because they haven’t had much opportunity to learn the skill at home or at school (see our photos). It was a little tricky trying to convince them to stay inside the lines. More practice is needed...This afternoon, we took the puppy that Emily has adopted to the vet for vaccinations and discovered that Max is in fact Maxie!

Day 111 22 October ...both still felt tired after our full weekend but found the time to make a short video of a cheeky encounter we had on Sunday (see our Instagram). Our time with Justine is ticking away as she is returning to Belgium on Saturday and so we’re under pressure to quickly do all the tasks that require her input before she goes. So for anyone thinking we’re ‘on holiday’, we’re definitely not! It’s taking our every waking hour but it’s rewarding too.

Day 110 21 October ...awoke to bright sunshine on Lake Kivu. Gill had a shower standing in a basin and using water from a jerrycan to wash - interesting experience. Emily declined. Then we set off in a boat with Pierre and Justine to explore two islands. We climbed right to the top of the first, Napoleon’s Hat, and had an incredible view of all the mini islands in the lake and right over to Congo. See our photos and Instagram. At the next island, a very cheeky vervet monkey watched our arrival and immediately came aboard our boat to demand bananas. Luckily we had a supply. We’ll put a video on Instagram of that tomorrow. Stay tuned...

Day 109 20 October ...left Nyamata at 8:30 this morning with Pierre and Justine and made our way to Kigali where we shopped for some school essentials. The stationery shops were the most surprising as the shop front is basically open to the street and the entrance is just a long counter across the shop. You state for what you are looking for and the assistant disappears off to find it. And you wait. It took us hours to gather the supplies as there is no sense of urgency or hurry so you just have to go with the flow. About midday, we left Kigali with Gill at the helm of the car and drove a long way west across Rwanda on winding roads climbing up and coasting down hill after hill marvelling at the spectacular scenery (see our photos and Instagram) until we eventually arrived at Lake Kivu just as the sun set. This is indeed the Land of a Thousand Hills.

Day 108 19 October ...are celebrating a successful day! Gill’s meeting with the teachers went very well and the suggestions for how to change the classrooms caused lots of discussion and debate. Then we talked about our suggestion to create a Resource Centre at the school with all the library books, art material and the few available toys centralised for all to use instead of dispersed in the classrooms. Well! this caused huge excitement and animated enthusiasm as they realised just how many resources are actually available that they hadn’t known about (see our photos). We’re going to start implementing the changes on Monday - can’t wait!

Day 107 18 October ...are both preparing for ‘events’: Emily has presented her Farmer Billy story to the Primary One class and they are now learning their lines to perform it for the parents. Gill has gathered her classroom observations and tomorrow afternoon will join the weekly teacher meeting to present them and we’ll decide what additions we can make to the classes. The afternoon finished with some enthusiastic singing and marching. See our Instagram to find out by whom!

Day 106 17 October ...witnessed the birth of a new building at the school. When we arrived exactly two weeks ago, the foundations were being dug. A team of about eight men and women worked all the daylight hours, seven days a week for a fortnight and, unbelievably, tomorrow is inauguration day! The women mixed and carried all the cement in buckets on their head and did the pointing between the bricks. Everything was made by hand, most of it right beside the building as needed - metal doors & window frames and wooden ceilings. All the materials arrived by bicycle along the rutted, earth roads. Take a look at Instagram and marvel at the achievement. We still can’t believe it!

Day 105 16 October ...feel like we are wading in deeper and deeper to this school. Emily is now involved in helping the Primary One class prepare a sketch in English to perform in front of the parents on the last day of school which is early November. The class are studying storytelling so Emily spent her day writing an original piece about a banana farmer, monkeys and a dog. We’ll record the results for you when it is performed! Gill finished her observations in each class and wrote a report for the school founders to consider. What the school needs is a director as there is much organisation needed. Gill is trying to ignore fantasies of staying here and getting stuck in....

Day 104 15 October ...heard Gaudiose’s story: Gaudiose came from Burundi (which borders Rwanda) three years ago leaving her five children age 11 to 24 behind her with her mother. She is a widow and she needed to find work in Rwanda to support her family back in Burundi where life is cheaper but there is a lot of civil unrest. But it was very difficult to find a real job paying enough to send money home. At the beginning of this year, she was working in the market in Nyamata selling shoes when she heard of the possibility of a job teaching in L’école du Bon Berger. She applied for the job, started in February and loves being at the school. Now she is trying to get enough money to bring her children to live with her but so far hasn’t succeeded. Gaudiose was gazing off into the distance as she said she thanks God every day for helping her to find a job.Every adult we have met so far at the school, when asked, has a story to tell which often is very hard to hear. Despite this, the atmosphere in the school is energetic and positive as most focus on giving thanks for what they have and looking to the future.

Day 103 14 October ...drove to Kigali for a lunch date with a special family. All along the hilly road from Nyamata, there are people. Many, many people. Men, women and children all walking or pushing or riding bicycles piled high with cumbersome, heavy objects: building materials, jerry cans of water, sugar cane, huge sacks of rice or grain. This is daily life in the countryside - anything you need, you have to walk to find and then somehow get it home. It’s very sobering to see the effort required. We lunched with a colleague from the European Commission, Arnaud de Vanssay, his family and an Irish colleague of his. Arnaud and his wife, Stephanie, cycled with their five children (aged 2 to 14 years) across Europe from France to Turkey during three months this summer. An incredible and amazing feat! We had a wonderful time exchanging our experiences over a delicious lunch in their garden. See our photos.

Day 102 13 October ...were part of a parent-teacher meeting at the school. Our job was to give tickets for the communal lunch following the morning of meetings (see our photos) and then present ourselves at the general meeting. It’s a rare occasion for all parents, teachers and Justine, the school’s founder, to have the chance to meet so there were lots of speeches in Kinyarwanda. Not quite sure what was said but there were lots of happy faces and enthusiastic clapping!

Day 101 12 October …had a busy morning at school. Emily continued teaching the time in English to the Primary One class and then, as it wasn’t raining, we tried to take a photo with the kids to mark our 100 days of travelling. However, it didn’t quite go to plan… See for yourself on our Instagram! We have decided with the school that it would be beneficial for them if we can build them a new school website and so this will be our main task while we’re here. In addition, Emily will teach and Gill will help implement a few general projects to improve the school’s organisation. We feel very well accepted and welcomed! This afternoon, both of us were feeling a little unwell with light heads and tiredness so we had a siesta. Could be a reaction to our malaria medication…

Day 100 11 October ...celebrated 100 days of our World Trip!! Honestly, it has been an amazing experience so far. Every day has brought us completely new situations, places, people and food! Just embracing these as they happen is very liberating. It is everything we hoped for before we set off, and more. Thank you for sharing our journey so far with it. We’re going to keep going!

Day 99 10 October ...didn’t stop for a moment all day. Emily was teaching the time in English to the primary one class and she wanted to help them to make a paper plate clock so the morning was spent getting all the materials prepared. Then she had an intensive hour and a half leading them through the steps (see our photo) The kids were so engaged and intrigued by this blonde instructress, that they obligingly did everything she asked. Watch it for yourself on Instagram!!

Day 98 9 October ...both experienced Rwandan preschooler grá and fell in love with a cheeky wink (see Instagram)! We spent the whole morning with ‘deuxième maternelle’ learning about the number 16 and the letter V and singing our hearts out. The teacher is very creative given the lack of classroom materials. For the French lesson, she told an inventive story about a mother walking to the market with a basket on her head. She used the bin as the basket and swayed around the room pronouncing every word very precisely and making the kids repeat (See our photos) It’s humbling how enthusiastic and willing to learn they are.

Day 97 8 October ...had our first day at the Ecole du Bon Berger! First, we watched the outdoor assembly and then Emily went to join the Primary One class as they had Maths, French, English, Kinyarwanda and Maths again. Gill went to visit two nursery classes where she was the object of so much curiosity that the teachers gave up trying to teach and we went with the flow. See our Instagram video and photos.

Day 96 7 October ...brainstormed with Mama Justine and one of her sons, Bobo about what we could hope to achieve during our six weeks here at the École du Bon Berger. We think that the best use of our time would be to help develop their online presence and raise awareness of the amazing journey they have already undertaken. The school is ready to grow more and to do so, they need help. We hope to be a part of that. But first, tomorrow it's back to school for us with the kids. And Emily thought she had escaped the September Back to School!

Day 95 6 October ...finally are feeling more normal again after long, deep sleeps. We’re loving the food here - lots of sumptuous avocados, papaya, savoury banana casserole to name a few so far. We are still trying to get a strong enough and stable wifi connection here at the school so, in the meantime today, we headed to the local hotel where they have a huge 50m outdoor pool (see photo) and lots of free surfing access. After a swim, Emily studied all afternoon until sundown.

Day 94 5 October ...were still tired despite the long sleep so we just unpacked and settled into the house which is right beside the school. Justine built the house with a wing for volunteers to stay in - great forward thinking! This afternoon, we had a first brainstorming session to work out how we can help the most during our six weeks at the school. Lots of interesting and inspiring ideas!

Day 93 4 October ...were so glad to escape the travellers’ lounge in Nairobi Airport after a fitful few hours of cramped sleep. We flew at 7a.m. to Kigali and were met at the airport by Justine Umubyeyi who set up the school, Au Bon Berger, in Nyamata in 2016. She took us first into Kigali to look for a SIM card for our router and then told us many stories as we drove to Nyamata. Stories of what happened in that region 24 years ago during the genocide and what happened to her family. It’s hard not to cry when you hear these stories because if, even for a second, your let yourself imagine being in that situation with your family, your heart is completely overwhelmed. Somehow, out of this devastation, Justine found the strength and means to build a school, a bakery and create many related jobs. We spent the afternoon at the school meeting the children and teachers and being blown away by positive energy and determination to build their future and nurture so many here. We are totally blessed, honoured and humbled to be among these people and look forward to spending six weeks at this special place surrounded by banana trees. We owe everything to our Rwandan friends, Alice and François, back in Italy for this opportunity. Murakoze.

NAIROBI, KENYA

Day 92 3 October ...woke late in the lovely hotel inside Mumbai airport and sat in bed for the morning studying and doing admin. This afternoon, we flew for seven hours to Nairobi where we ended up taking two hours to reclaim our bags. We’re sleeping the night on chairs in a transfer lounge. Oh, the joys of being a traveller!

MUMBAI, INDIA

Day 91 2 October ...took some last photos at Arugam Bay (see photos) and set off on an epic car journey to Colombo on the other side of Sri Lanka. It was a nine hour drive and we soon discovered that we were being driven by Mr DeathWish MemoryLoss. Gill kept asking him to slow down and drive more gently but he kept forgetting the request. For once, we were positively delighted to be boarding an aeroplane at 11:30pm. Heading to Rwanda via Mumbai and Nairobi. Could take a few days...

SRI LANKA

Day 90 1 October ...had a rare, blissful lie-in. For breakfast, we went to our favourite haunt, the rooftop at Bay Vista, and had our last yummy smoothie bowl. This afternoon, we went on jeep safari to Kumana National Park (See our photos and instagram) On our way to the park, an elephant was blocking the road and it took 10 minutes to persuade him to move away. Once inside, we were so lucky to come across a small herd of elephants who stayed right beside the jeep. We also saw crocodiles, buffalo, heaps of deer, monkeys and anteaters. The recent rains caused one of the crocodile-infested lakes to swell up and cover the road. The jeep drove through some of the way but it was impossible to tell how deep the water was or even where the road was so thankfully the driver decided to turn back after a nerve-racking quarter hour. We were soooo relieved!

Day 89 30 September ...hauled ourselves out of bed again at 6:30 this morning to go surfing but we were greeted with monsoon rains so there was a change of plan. Instead, we had Japan Throwback Day as Emily finished her video and Gill posted a blog. This afternoon, Emily did get to surf but the waves weren’t cooperating so she climbed the Elephant Rock to see the view. Gill went to a yoga class in a dreamy location and floated back to the room for a good night’s sleep. No surfing tomorrow- we’re too tired by all this activity and sea air.

Day 88 29 September …found ourselves in a tuk tuk at 7a.m. heading to Elephant Rock with Fowzis, the owner of where we are staying. He was determined that Emily should have the chance to practice surfing as much as possible before we leave Sri Lanka and so they spent three hours in the water while Gill tried not to drown as she endeavoured to film the progress. More spoiling from Fowzis this evening as he barbecued fresh whole tuna for us on the beachfront at the hotel. We might have to stay here…

Day 87 28 September ...packed quite a lot into our day! Emily surfed this morning and then we had a fruity breakfast while Gill did admin and Emily studied (see Instagram). Early this afternoon we found new accommodation because our original place had lots of problems including a determined squirrel that was gnawing its way through the wooden ceiling at night and causing us anxiety! We took a lagoon safari in the late afternoon and saw two elephants, huge bats, a herd of buffalo and caught glimpses of crocodiles (see our photos). Our guide told us that the Pottuvil Lagoon was restored by the European Union after the devastating tsunami on 26 December 2004 wiped out most of Arugam Bay.

Day 86 27 September ...started the day very early with Emily having a surf lesson (see Instagram) and Gill doing a sweaty yoga class. This afternoon, we went in search of new accommodation as the place we are staying in seems to have one problem after another. Luckily we found something and we’ll move there on Saturday. While we were having dinner this evening with a couple of fellow travellers, a creature pooped on Emily from the trees overhead. She is going to bed now traumatised!

Day 85 26 September ...got to grips with what Arugam Bay has to offer. It’s a busy stretch along the coastline with lots of lovely beach and great value surfing and yoga - something for everyone! The food on offer is a mix of traditional Sri Lankan and Western ‘trendy’ foods like smoothies, avocado toasts, mezze and even our favourite Hawaiian poke. We’re becoming pros at hopping into tuk tuks once the muggy heat becomes too much and we need to make it back to our hostel for a lie down. Emily declared herself tired of being with Gill 24/7 and is reduced to amusing herself with ice cubes. See our Instagram.

Day 84 25 September ...had a long journey travelling from the Yoga Retreat to Kandy where we boarded a train to do the six hour trip to Ella, followed by a three hour taxi ride to Arugam Bay. This train ride is famous for its spectacular views as it passes high in the mountains through miles upon miles of tea plantations. See our photos. However the weather turned wet and misty so we didn’t get the full effect, unfortunately. At Ella, our taxi driver warned us that we would have to drive through a stretch of road where wild elephants roam. Sure enough, we passed several along the way just casually wandering along the road in the black of the night. Kind of surreal. No photos of those - we weren’t hanging around…

Day 83 24 September ...did our morning yoga before we even woke up properly. Honestly, being on retreat is exhausting. Monsoon rains set in mid-morning so we amused ourselves by spending some time in the kitchen with the cook, Anula, who taught us a few of the dishes that we’ve been eating this week. Sri Lankan food is spiced but delicately so and uses lots of vegetables and herbs. We’ve loved it! See our Instagram and photos.

Day 82 23 September ...felt very zen doing our morning yoga in the open pavilion which overlooks the jungle (see Instagram). Both Gill and Emily had an Ayurveda massage which involves a LOT of oil and a steam bath which is similar to a sauna. The monsoon rain in the afternoon brought out the leeches and we scared ourselves silly reading about them before we had to walk the half kilometre to dinner. We covered our legs in repellent and ran. Unfortunately, it wasn’t enough and they got us nevertheless. Not such a zen end to the day…

Day 81 22 September ...woke in our matching, netted four poster beds and made our way to the Rock House where Yumi, the Japanese wife of the Centre’s owner, was waiting to take us two through our yoga paces. The hour and a half flew by and we emerged stretched and hungry. We breakfasted with Waruna who owns the totally unique Samadhi Centre and our conversation covered a huge variety of insights, at times quite profound. A throw-away remark about tea, had Waruna leaping to his feet, clapping his hands and organising us to be taken by jeep to see a tea factory. The journey was spectacular as we bumped along narrow roads high into the mountains passing tiny dwellings, mini shops and monkeys escaping up trees. The tea factory was like stepping back into the 1940s as our guide took us through a fascinating tour of every stage from freshly picked leaves to the 16 different tea types being produced. The factory produces 25.000 kg of leaves per day which are sent daily to Colombo to be graded and auctioned. Our morning yoga, mountain drive and tea experience day was Gill’s dream way to celebrate her birthday.

Day 80 21 September ...had a day filled with new experiences and adventures! We got up extra early to explore the Temple of the Tooth with a guide before the crowds took hold. It was fascinating to hear the many stories attached to the ancient buildings and appreciate how important this beautiful temple complex is to Sri Lankans. Afterwards, we went by tuk-tuk to shop for long loose trousers for us both which was a mini adventure of its own. The sheer number of people, noise and apparent chaos was exhilarating. In the afternoon, we left our zen hotel by taxi to head for the hills and enjoyed a journey of learning courtesy of our knowledgeable driver. Our next four days will be spent at a yoga retreat in a location like nothing we have ever experienced before. Check out our photos and stay tuned!

Day 79 20 September ...arrived in Colombo at 4a.m after a cramped, crowded, rather sleepless flight. Even at that ungodly hour, the airport was teeming with men asking if we needed washing machines, flatscreen TVs, hotels, taxis or tour guides. What we really needed was a SIM card and a cup of tea. Once procured, we negotiated a 3 hour taxi ride to Kandy where we had a hotel booked. The drive was a jaw-dropping experience as the roads all the way were packed with people, buses, tuk-tuks, cars and mopeds. Oh, and elephants and monkeys!! There didn’t appear to be any driving rules - just free for all. The contrast with reserved, organised Japan couldn’t have been more stark. We fell onto our crisp linen beds at our hotel and slept soundly until dinner time. The hotel owner suggested trying some Sri Lankan dishes at a local restaurant. They were spicy and delicious and made our tummies happy before we climbed back into bed to hopefully sleep the last of the jet lag off.

SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA

Day 78 19 September ... woke up early in our capsule hotel in Osaka planning to fly to Sri Lanka via Shanghai. However, our airline had cancelled our flights and forgot to inform us! The best solution that our travel agent could find was via Seoul but with a long nine hour layover (see our Instagram). So, here we are, killing time in the traveller’s lounge before we set off at midnight for eight hours to Colombo. Gill’s birthday celebrations are on hold for a day or two…

JAPAN

Day 77 18 September ... said goodbye to Makoto and Hitomi. Staying with them made a world of difference to our week in Japan as we were able to ask so many questions and learn from them. Emily has fallen in deep love with onigiri (‘on-the-go’ seaweed covered rice triangles with a variety of fillings) and Hitomi showed her how to make them along with miso soup and sushi. Our first purchase on our return to Italia will be a rice maker! Staying in another capsule hotel for our last night in The Land of the Rising Sun. Very fitting.

Day 76 17 September ...were planning to go out for a few hours but that idea fell to pieces once we saw the volume of admin to be done before we head to Sri Lanka. While Gill tackled research and bookings, Emily got to work on finishing the video for our recent week in Hawaii. Take a look at YouTube! After eating Japanese for almost a week, it was time to turn the tables so we made bruschetta followed by spaghetti carbonara for our hosts, Hitomi, Makoto and their son, Ryoyo. After dinner, they surprised Gill with a beautiful cake as an early birthday gift. See our Instagram.

Day 75 16 September ...were driven all the way to the Ise Grand Shrine which is dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu, and is where she is believed to dwell. It was a long road trip so we revived ourselves with bowls of scrumptious fat noodles and meat before we entered the grounds. The shrine is set in beautiful woodlands with huge, ancient trees all around. We paid our respects and brought home an amulet for safe travel to protect us on our continuing journey. Back at home, Hitomi showed Emily how to prepare the ingredients for making sushi and we had a wonderful meal discussing how sitting together to eat and share food traditions is the very best way to learn that, no matter where we are on Earth, we are fundamentally all the same. Before the evening finished, Makoto and Hitomi gave us beautiful personalised sandalwood chopsticks as a momento of our wonderful week in Japan. Take a look at our photos.

Day 74 15 September ...could hardly move from exhaustion after the past busy days. We revived by evening though in time to enjoy learning how to make tempura with Makoto and Hitomi. And we got good news from YouTube today - they unblocked our New York video which they had blocked while they checked the copyright. Enjoy the throwback to our time in The Big Apple!

Day 73 14 September ...hauled ourselves off our futons early this morning and headed to the iconic Itsukushima Shrine to see it before the tourists arrived. After a hearty Japanese breakfast, we hiked for several hours on Mount Misen which has wonderful temples, pagodas and budda statues. It was a very challenging hike and we were pretty wiped out by the time we staggered back to the ryokan. After an ultra fast wash in the onsen, we travelled by ferry, train, bullet train and two metros to Ikoma to stay for a few days with a Japanese family. See our photos and Instagram.

Day 72 13 September ...woke in our cosy capsule after a great night’s sleep (see Instagram). There is just so much to tell about that experience that it merits a blog in the coming days. After a breakfast of onigiri (rice triangles wrapped in seaweed) and what we hoped would be an apple bun but it turned out to be curry, we took a bullet train to Hiroshima to spend the afternoon at the Peace Memorial. The museum portrays the utter devastation the atomic bomb caused, the city’s struggle to recover and their determination to rid the world of nuclear weapons. This evening, we are staying in a traditional ryokan with tatami mats, futon, kimono and onsen on Miyajima Island. See our photos. We are feeling totally Japanese!

Day 71 12 September ...appear to have lost Tuesday 11 September somewhere in the Pacific Ocean. We got on a plane bound for Tokyo at midday on Tuesday and when we got off after 9 hours’ flight, it was Wednesday 12 September in the afternoon. See our Instagram for our final sight of Hawaii. However, we almost had heart failure at Hawaii airport when we were told that what we thought was a 3 hour layover in Tokyo to change planes to Osaka, was in fact a change of airport which involved a 1.5 hour bus ride. That will teach us to read our itinerary more closely! How lucky we were that polite Japanese efficiency enabled us to achieve the seemingly impossible and we made it to Osaka where we are now setting down to sleep in our snug capsule hotel ‘room’. Photos tomorrow!

HAWAII, USA

Day 69 10 September ...divided and conquered. Gill went for a final few hours to the beach this morning while Emily tackled maths in the apartment and uploaded some last photos. This afternoon, we checked-in and prepared for tomorrow’s journey to Japan. We will leave Hawaii just a few hours ahead of Storm Olivia. However, we are worried about all our friends in North Carolina who are facing category 4 Hurricane Florence on Thursday.

Day 68     9 September     ...ate eggs and muffins for breakfast on the balcony, watching the ocean and listening to a beautiful gospel choir singing hymns during the Sunday service being held outdoors beside the condo. Gill was transported back to her teenage years in Kells, Ireland as she listened to ‘How great thou art’ which seemed to underline that so many of us share similar lives and values the world over. This evening, we sailed into the sunset aboard the Hōkūlani to go snorkelling with Manta Rays. It was an incredibly moving experience being in the water beside these gentle giants. Take a look at our Instagram to see just how huge they are (about 4 meters wingspan) and how close they come to you (about 20 cm)!

Day 67     8 September     ...had an admin and laundry morning followed by some shopping in the heat and an attempt to find an Acai Bowl which has been Emily's dream since we arrived in the USA. Alas, it was not to be today as the fruit bar was closing up as we arrived. It is on our list for tomorrow morning.

Day 66     7 September     ...took an early morning trip on a beautiful trimaran boat to snorkel in Kealakekua Bay where the British explorer, Captain Cook, met his fate at the hands of Hawaiian warriors. Breakfast of fruits and pastries was served as we set sail and settled down onboard with a dozen sailing companions. During the first snorkel, we were really fortunate to see three small sharks in a cave as well as lots of beautiful fish feeding on the coral (see our photos and Instagram). Back on board after the hard work, we were happy to munch on lunch as we made our way to a second stopping point, where we jumped off the boat and swam in beautiful waters. 
We met a very friendly and generous couple, Bob and Marcia from Minnesota, who often spend time in Hawaii and had lots of great stories to tell. Hoping that they will come to visit us in Italy!

Day 65     6 September     ...missed the bus and so ended walking to a nearby beach with Emily complaining all the way. However, once we got there, she agreed that it was worth it. White sand, turquoise water, palm tree shade, picnic lunch - really, what more could you ask for?  See our Instagram. Gill learnt (the hard way) to body board while Emily glided effortlessly on the crest of the waves each time up onto the sand. Showers back at the condo never felt so good. We succumbed to poke for dinner again and received a loyalty card as we’ve been there three days in a row. Early to bed tonight as we have booked a really special treat for tomorrow...

Day 64     5 September    ...had to pinch ourselves when we woke up to the sound of the ocean and the incredible views. Gill stretched out her travel stiffness with some yoga on the spectacular balcony as the sun rose (jet lag can have some advantages) and then we headed to a nearby Farmers Market. Filled our bags with lots of local fruit and veggies (see our Instagram) and couldn’t resist some Hawaiian jewellery. We lunched again on divine poke from Da Poke Shake  which is right beside the condo and idly looked it up online. Turns out that it was in the Yelp Top 100 restaurants of the USA - placed as Number One!! While we were ordering our takeaway bowl, there was a massive whole tuna being delivered. They told us that they use around 70kg a day of fresh tuna. It's a popular spot.

Day 63    4 September     ...think we’ve hit the jackpot! Sorry, but we may decide to stay in this location for the foreseeable future. See our Instagram and photos to see why.

LOS ANGELES, USA

Day 62    3 September   ...decided that LA is not the place for travellers on a budget.  It's difficult to go far here without a car and the distances are huge. So, we decided to have a day at home - Gill on the PC working through the To Do list (doesn't disappear even when travelling!) and Emily on a jigsaw puzzle. Our reward at the end was some sunbathing on the balcony and takeaway dinner. Tomorrow we have our flight to Hawaii at 6 a.m.Before you go, grab a cuppa and take five minutes with us to read the latest blog.

Day 61     2 September    ...rented bikes at Long Beach and cycled all the way to Naples (LA, not Italy, phew!). The boardwalk was busy with inline skaters, cyclists, walkers, scooters, runners and skateboarders. Naples is very picturesque with canals and pretty, expensive beach homes. We were totally wiped after four hours of sun and activity. Tea, chocolate and the sofa was the only solution this evening. Take five minutes with us to read the latest blog.

Day 60     1 September  ...walked to the supermarket to get provisions for our short stay in L.A.  The air is so much fresher and breathable than Florida, what a relief.  We were still really tired after our journey yesterday so the afternoon was spent sunbathing on the balcony and chatting with family on long catch up phone calls.  Still adjusting to being two instead of three...

ORLANDO, USA

Day 59     31 August     ...have flat bums from sitting all day! This morning, we left Miami and drove for five hours to Orlando stopping briefly along the coast to take our last look at the Atlantic Ocean for a while (see our photos). At the airport, we wrapped our rucksacks in cling film to protect their straps from becoming entangled during the journey. Worked a treat. Next, we sat for five hours on a packed airplane flying from Florida to Los Angeles, California. We are two exhausted girls. Tonight is the first night since mid-July that we have a bedroom each. Looking forward to sweet and deep sleep!

Day 58    30 August    ...said ‘until we meet again’ to Adam. We dropped him to the airport and it was tough to let him go as we won’t see him until Christmas time. See our Instagram. Thank you, Adam, for these great three months together - they have been wonderful. We love you! 
After his departure, Emily and Gill drove to Miami to meet Emily’s American friend, Sara, who used to be in school in Varese with her. We went to a play park for big kids and they swung, spun, batted and hung around as they caught up on their girlie gossip! See our photos.

Day 57     29 August     ...were wowed by the sheer scale of achievement and the inspiring stories at the NASA Kennedy Space Centre. We spent seven hours there totally engaged and learnt so much about the space missions and future space programs (see our photos and Instagram). Adam was agog at the engineering feats achieved and the gigantic size of the rockets and launch pads. Our engineer-in-the-making is feeling inspired for his return tomorrow to Ireland for his second year of University. We had a bittersweet last day with him today after three months together and are trying not to feel sad.

Day 56     28 August    ...found a way to overcome the huge distances in Orlando, the sweltering heat and no car.  It’s called Uber ;-) We Ubered to the supermarket and beautician for some essentials like food and waxed legs, then Ubered back to our AirBnB. This evening we ordered from a local restaurant and Uber brought it to us. Uber-cool!

Day 55     27 August     ...cast wizardy spells, rode the Hogwarts Express from Platform 9 3/4, hurtled through the vaults of Gringotts Bank, soared around Hogwarts Castle being chased by dragons and Death Eaters and tasted butterbeer! You guessed it... we watched all the Harry Potter films back-to-back over the last week in preparation for our visit today to Harry Potter World in Orlando. Adam has been crazy about Harry since he was nine years old (and he shares his birthday with J.K. Rowling) so we simply couldn’t miss this massive treat offered by his grandma and grandpa! We have added a few photos of our day in the album but make sure that you take a look at our video on Instagram to find out what Adamthought of butterbeer...

BONLEE GROWN FARM, NORTH CAROLINA, USA

Day 54     26 August     ...had an emotional goodbye to our friends at the farm. They gave us each a good luck momento to carry with us (see our photos). Emily received a Golden Sacagawea Dollar coin which commemorates a young American Indian girl who helped explorers in Louisiana in the early 19th century. Gill got a coin depicting Susan B. Anthony who was an American social reformer and woman’s rights activist in the mid 19th century. Adam received a two dollar note which are no longer in production and which he is thrilled to have as his memory of our time North Carolina. We will treasure these keepsakes and we have already made plans for our new friends to come to our home in 2019. We loved our 17 days at Bonlee Grown Farm where we felt so welcomed and accepted. Take a look at our video to see just how lovely it is

Day 53    25 August     ...had our last day at the farm. It feels strange to be leaving as we have become part of the fabric here even though we arrived just over two weeks ago. Adam went to the Saturday market with Amy, Emily planted spinach and lettuce seeds and Gill cleaned up the kitchen explosion - again!  Clothes were washed, belongings gathered and goodbyes said to some new friends. Tonight we had a lovely dinner and all eight of us piled into the TV room to watch the next instalment of Harry Potter.  

Day 52     24 August     ...had the usual Frantic Friday that we have come to associate with the farm. Gill spent 5 hours picking peppers and preparing veg for market followed by household cleaning to keep things running.  Emily finished her farm video (watch out for that on Monday morning!) and then had a mammoth label making session as she updated about 100 signs and labels for the market. Adam helped Amy with veg preparation for her 13 hour pickling gig and did lots of odd jobs wherever he was needed.  This evening, we watched The Order of the Phoenix as we continue our Harry Potter filmfest. Adam is getting up at 5:30 tomorrow to go to market with Amy.  Being a student is surely easier than this!

Day 51     23 August     ...visited North Carolina Zoo - the world's largest natural habitat zoo - and had an absolutely fantastic day. See our photos and short video on Instagram. Gill was filled with inspiration by the exhibit labels and variety of novel communication techniques and was scribbling notes all the way - it’s hard to forget the day job! 

Day 50    22 August    ...had a lot of fun filming the footage for our video of the farm - all hands on deck and in front of the camera. We're looking forward to the result! This evening, we continued our Harry Potter film binge. We are on a mission to see all eight films before next Monday. Stay tuned to find out why. 

Day 49     21 August     ...had an unusual lunch request from one of the helpers: a mayonnaise and banana sandwich...! He was on his own on that one. Dinner, thankfully, was a more normal affair (see Instagram). Gill enjoyed a heavenly mindful morning picking okra and green beans: perfect outdoor temperature, background birdsong, cooperative vegetables, gentle refreshing breeze. Farming 7,070km from home and loving the novelty.

Day 48     20 August     ...are pickled out! Emily and Amy made 53 jars of pickled okra which took them all day (see photo and prepare to be impressed). Gill worked with Adam and Andrea to overhaul a sticky, hot greenhouse thick with weeds (see Instagram). Wonder how long it will last...

Day 47   19 August   ...slept late and digested slowly as predicted - it was heavenly. Emily went to her first Walmart supermarket with Amy and wanted to be locked in for the night but thankfully Amy decided against it. Gill and Adam pottered through a few of the daily farm chores along with the other volunteers (see photos) and then Ramy, our host's daughter, came home for the night with goodies from a market. Andrea, another volunteer, introduced Amy and Ray to caipirinha using cachaça from her home country of Brazil. A roaring success and a great evening to end our week!

Day 46     18 August     ...started the day at 5:30 with Adam and Emily heading to the market with Amy. They sustained themselves through the busy morning with cinnamon rolls to keep the sales chat flowing (see our photos). Back at home, Gill was tackling admin jobs online while enjoying an unusually quiet house.  This evening, we were treated to a typical Southern Carolina dinner at Charlotte's, Amy's friend.  Check our Instagram for the full list.  Luckily tomorrow is Sunday and we can sleep late and digest slowly.

Day 45     17 August    ...feel that we are becoming more and more part of the farm and family now.  We understand the jobs that need to be done and can head off in the morning, each with a list of tasks, to work independently. Fridays are a really busy day preparing for the big Saturday market.  Amy spent 12 hours making jams and pickles and we all picked and prepared vegetables, flowers and eggs. Both Adam and Emily have asked Amy if they can join her at the market so the plan was for an early night but somehow the jobs continue until late.  There are three other volunteers here too and there is a good team spirit which keeps us working hard. It is really eye-opening to see how much effort is involved in farming - it's definitely a vocation.

Day 44    16 August     ...were in charge of the farm ourselves! Everybody was off doing other things and so we played 'Farm'.  Adam drove the 1954 Ford tractor to cut the grass, Emily perspired gently in the greenhouse thinning the aloe and Gill labelled pickle jars whilst enjoying the indoor air-conditioning (but don't tell Emily that).  Take a look at our photos.

Day 43     15 August     ...weeded, sorted chickens, picked vegetables, planted autumn seeds, did a Walmart shop, made burgers and salsa, spread rocks to fill potholes, fell into bed!

Day 42     14 August     ...were so shocked to read this morning about the terrible tragedy in Italy. It has been on our minds and in our hearts all day. Today was okra pickling day - watch our Instagram video to see the steps.

Day 41     13 August     ...divided three ways. Adam set off outside where he let out and fed the chickens, dug a trench and did lots of odd jobs. Emily went to the potting shed with Ramy, our host’s daughter, to learn how to root cuttings from the succulents (see photo). Gill stayed at the house to sort four hundred thousand odd socks (or so it seemed) into pairs and then filled little bottles with coconut oil - another sideline business of the farm.

Day 40    12 August    ...had a very relaxing day just pottering through a few jobs and eating cookies from yesterday's Farmer's Market.

Day 39    11 August   ...(Amy, Gill and Emily) woke extra early and by 7:45 were all set up with our stand at the Durham Farmer's Market for a morning of non-stop selling. Emily enjoyed her selling debut but it took it's toll on the way home - see the evidence on Instagram.  Back at the farm, Adam was working with Ray to dig a big drain in preparation for a new building on the farm. Afternoon sleeps for us all! Tomorrow is a day off - yippee! Have a look at the video on Instagram of our visit to the Stockyard on Friday evening and take the challenge we set you - there's a cake at stake.

Day 38     10 August     ...had a packed first day on Bonlee Grown Farm! Picked blueberries and peppers, made friends with two tame deer, refreshed with an ice-cream. And that was just this morning. After lunch, Adam pickled okra (under Amy’s guidance), then we packed boxes of tomatoes, blueberries, okra and plants for the Saturday market. This evening, we went to a cattle market for a humongous cheeseburger and a visit to the auction room. What an experience! See our photos of today and a short video will follow tomorrow.  Going straight to bed now because Emily and Gill are getting up at 5:00 to go to market. Stay tuned...

Day 37     9 August     ...were bowled over by an inspiring lady who drove us from our motel to the bus station in Norfolk. She has master degrees in psychology and sociology and has supported herself through her studies by driving for Uber among other jobs. As well as having survived breast cancer whilst looking after her 27 year old son with Aspergers and her 87 year old mum, last week she started a new job helping AIDS sufferers but she still strives to find a job in supporting victims of natural disasters. She was really well-informed about American politics and society. The 15 minute drive to the Greyhound bus was way too short! Speaking of buses, read the latest blog.

VIRGINIA BEACH, USA

Day 36     8 August     ...got up early this morning in a bid to beat the sweltering heat. Hardly anyone at our favourite Chic’s Beach - gorgeous spot. We enjoyed sun, sea and sand (see our photos and and short video on Instagram) until just after lunch and then spent the afternoon in our blissfully cooled motel room packing and preparing for a long bus journey tomorrow to our next farm in North Carolina. 

Day 35    7 August   ...had a serious admin day (while revelling in our motel air-conditioning) trying to plan a particular leg of the journey- intense World Wide Webbing. Not sure that could we do this journey without internet, to be honest. Once the heat had died off a bit, we took a bus to the real Virginia Beach (see our Instagram). It seemed to be an American version of Brighton. Chic’s Beach gets our vote.

Day 34     6 August     ...are totally exhausted in a way that only a full day on the beach can bring. Chic’s Beach was our chosen spot and we walked to it in the muggy heat, carrying a little picnic and big sun umbrella. This residential bay offered kilometres of wide, white sandy beach, flat sea and beach houses built on stilts. Not many people around, just locals. We tried to nonchalantly blend in but our milky Irish skin gave us away.

NEW YORK CITY, USA

Day 33     5 August     ...left the New York skyscrapers behind us as we rode a Greyhound bus all the way to Virginia Beach. A fascinating trip which deserves a blog but that will be for tomorrow. Tonight we are in a classic motel and wondering how the night will unfold...

Day 32     4 August     ...hit the shopping streets of New York  for our last day here. Man! you can find enthin’ you want in this city! Sensory overload. Btw, you need any information at all about the NYC subway system, you ask Adam- he’s the Subway King ;-))

Day 31     3 August     ...had another all-American experience. This morning, Emily and Gill went to a Nail Salon for arguably the best pedicure and manicure ever! The pedicure area was in three tiers: you sit on the top one on a plush cushioned seat and put your tootsies into a porcelain basin (complete with fancy tap and gorgeous scented water) on the middle one. The beautician is at the lowest one with a myriad of tools and products. Tea is served - guess who was in heaven?! After your piggies are in order, it’s off to the manicure bar. Then over to the drying area where hands and feet have a gentle breeze wafting on them to dry the nail polish while your beautician gives you a neck and back massage just in case, somehow, you weren’t completely relaxed. We floated home to spend the afternoon finalising our latest video - enjoy!

Day 30    2 August     ...cycled the length and breadth of Central Park. Lots going on there: biking, walking, running, roller blading, a guy painting, picnickers, sunbathers, summer camp kids playing games (see our photos and Instagram). We stopped by the zoo but just to visit the shop because we craved air-conditioning! We are melting here.

Day 29     1 August      ...went to the 9/11 memorial museum. It was harrowing to follow how planned the attack was... man’s inhumanity to man. But the incredible solidarity among all New Yorkers as events unfolded that day and in the aftermath was the residual feeling. This is no ordinary city.

Day 28     31 July     ...celebrated Adam’s 21st birthday with fervour! We diligently worked our way through a classic pancake breakfast and afternoon birthday cake (see our Instagram) to build our energy for an incredible baseball game at the Yankees Stadium (see our photos). Pure New York...

Day 27    30 July    ...somehow muddled our way through the subway maze to partake in a very original hairdressing experience in Manhattan. Astor Place Barbershop has 70 independent hair stylists and is a New York City legend! See our photos for the outcome.

Day 26    29 July    ...were so glad that our (hostel) prison stay was only one night - it was so hot and noisy, even if it was quite a experience! This morning, we hired a car and drove from Ottawa to New York City. The journey that was supposed to take 7.5 hours, in fact, took 12. We were so warmly welcomed by our host family (see our pic) with a heavenly dinner and an intensive information sharing session about what not to miss while we are at their house and they are at ours.

THORNE LAKE RANCH, CANADA

Day 25     28 July     ...had our last day in Canada but we've ended up in jail in Ottawa for the night - see our photo...

Day 24     27 July     ...worked this morning and made it home just before a lunchtime storm. This afternoon, we washed all our farm clothes and muddy shoes and packed our rucksacks. Goodbye Manuel and Thorne Lake Ranch (see our photo)! Tomorrow we are going to Ottawa for an overnight somewhere special before we travel to New York City on Sunday.

Day 23     26 July    ...worked hard making fences in the boiling hot sun. For fun, Emily uploaded a short video on how to do fly boarding. Don't know what fly boarding is? You better find out on our Instagram!

Day 22     25 July     ...were washed out.  Heavy rain all night continued all day so we could only do a few farm jobs in the shed. This called for a trip to town to eat cake. Read all about it in our blog but only if you are not feeling hungry.

Day 21     24 July     ...had a special treat after our day of hard work: Manuel took us to Wakefield, a very cute town, where they have a beautiful covered bridge. It was built in 1915, burned down in 1984 and was rebuilt in 1997 by thousands of volunteers. Nowadays, apart from being a busy footbridge, it is used for cultural events and weddings and today there was a yoga class being held while we were there. See our photos.

Day 20    23 July    ...worked for 5 hours in sun and rain to continue with our fence-making mission. Gill and Emily alternated between strimming long grass under the fences and bark stripping the fencing posts, while Adam chainsawed trees, pounded posts and strung wire. We looked as if we had been swimming in our clothes when we got home, they were so wet! Apple crumble and an extra early night were in order to replenish the energy store.

Day 19     22 July     ...are really happy to welcome lots of new readers from the European Commission where Gill works (she suggests that you also might enjoy checking out some of the great material from the JRC Visitors’ Centre!). Sign up below to follow our adventures - we’d love you to come along with us as we travel!

Day 18      21 July     ... started the day gently, slowly preparing the house for the arrival of some AirBnb guests. Manuel cooked dinner for them while we went to town in search of internet to upload some photos and a blog and to indulge in a yummy Thai dinner. 

Day 17     20 July     ...had an early breakfast in the local café with Manuel’s friends for him to catch up on what’s been going on in the town. Then Adam spent a long day strimming grass from under 1.5 km of fencing while Gill and Emily did a mammoth reorganisation of the kitchen cupboards which left Manuel in a daze.  Oops...

Day 16     19 July     ...stripped logs, wired fences, pounded posts, transported billy goats and spent a delicious hour at the local library madly using internet whilst enjoying their air-conditioning. 

Day 15      18 July     ...hit the fields with our host, Manuel, to have our first lesson in fence-making before we moved cattle to a new field. After a second breakfast, Emily and Gill made fencing posts by stripping bark off felled tree trunks while Adam and Manuel pounded the posts into the ground. Only 2.5 miles of fencing to do... No internet at the farm so we can only connect when we go into town. No phone network either. Full farming immersion underway!

Day 14     17 July     ...we left the house bleary-eyed early this morning and made our way to the farm by taxi - train - taxi - bus - car. Free wifi all the way meant that Emily got to finish editing and uploading her Québec video. Enjoy!

QUEBEC CITY, CANADA

Day 13     16 July     ...packed our rucksacks and prepared ourselves for the next leg of our journey. Goodbye Québec - we've loved every minute! See our pictures on Instagram. We take the train tomorrow at 5:30 in the morning to head to a farm near Ottawa (with limited internet access). Thanks for having accompanied us these past two weeks. Stick with us to see what it's like working on a Canadian ranch.

Day 12     15 July     ...were glad to wake up in our comfy beds again after two nights in a tent. Spent the day putting away camping gear and washing all our clothes. Emily worked on the Québec City video. See our blog.

Day 11     14 July     …woke up and found it had rained overnight. Cue to pack up the tent and head home for oh-so-welcome hot showers and soft beds. See our pictures on Instagram.

Day 10     13 July    …crawled out of our sleeping bags after a patchy night's sleep filled with noises of distant bear calls and the chatter of nearby squirrels as they raided our neighbour's food tent. We kayaked around the whole lake stopping regularly to take in the sheer beauty and perfection around us. Adam and Emily took delight in jumping off the rocks into the water.  Surprisingly, Gill declined. See our photos.

Day 9      12 July     …were stunned by the mind-blowing number of trees as we drove to our campsite in the Reserve Faunique de Portneuf. We couldn’t believe our luck at the rugged beauty of the place - pure paradise. Setting up the tent was a challenge as we had no instructions although credit to Adam for directing us through it :-)  Hotdogs, smores and a billion bright stars for supper. See our photos.

Day 8     11 July     …welcomed in the day with deep stretches during spectacularly scenic yoga and finished with numb eardrums courtesy of The Chainsmokers who totally rocked the Festival. On a par with Ibiza any day!  See our photos.

Day 7     10 July     …caught the early morning City Tour double-decker bus to see Québec at its gorgeous best: beautiful buildings, great city vibe, intriguing shops, respectful drivers, friendly people, challenging accent.  Built up a good appetite to do justice to a well tasty Canadian-style brunch.  See our photos!

Day 6    9 July    ...laughed our socks off at The Incredibles 2 this morning at the cinema (we had been saving it so that we could see it in English) and then biked over to a local outdoor pool to cool off in the sticky heat. Its iconic 1970's concrete style was a delicious step back in time.  Watched the local lads launching themselves off the diving board in ever more daring feats.

Day 5     8 July     ...preserved our energy so that we were ready to accompany Emily to Shawn Mendes. Can't come to Québec without doing the Festival d'Été!

Day 4     7 July     …realised that we're a tad unfit.  A 15km bike ride to the Montmorency Waterfalls, a climb up the 487 wooden steps followed by a zip wire ride across the top of the falls and all again in reverse has the three of us on the sofa unable to walk as far as bed. See our photos and don't miss the video on Instagram.

Day 3     6 July     …biked to the Marché du Vieux Port and picnicked along the Saint-Laurent river. Got up close and personal with bees on the rooftop of the Museum of Civilisation.  See our blog.

Day 2     5 July     …woke up groggy and ventured out by bike into the boiling heat in search of food supplies. Emily in her element at finding iconic American brands.

Day 1     4 July     …traversed the bright blue skies to Quebec City via London and Toronto